Septic System Questions and Answers (Q&A)

I’m  happy to answer septic email questions from Hoosiers.  I thought it might be helpful to post some of these discussions.  If I post your email, I will leave out identifying information about you and your location.  Keep in mind that these discussions relate to Indiana’s septic rule and may not apply to you and your state.

 

(New webpage page starting 06/16/11):


Septic Tank on Lake Filling up:

Hello.  I stumbled across your website in doing research about our septic problem.  I never did really find any answers about our specific situation.  Your website said to contact you with questions.  Thank you.

Here is our situation.  We have a home on a Lake in Indiana.  The property is lake level and due to the high water table our field is saturated.  We had our tank pumped out and no sooner than we did, it was full again from water from the leach field.  To solve our problem we were wondering if we can install shut off valves in the pipes between our 1000 gallon plastic tank and the leach field, (in order to keep rain water out of the tank using the tank as a holding tank)?  These values could then be opened and closed as needed according to the saturation of the field.

Other questions -

Our neighbors mentioned that they thought that our system had a valve on it in order to open and close the different leach fields.  How would we be able to locate such a value if it exists?

Would a mound system be able to be installed on a lake level property which has a high water table?  If so, could you quote an approximate cost?  We have 1/2 acre (2 bedroom house).  The lot is 100 ft x 225 ft approximate.

We heard rumors of sewers coming to the area such as is what is being done for Koontz Lake in Stark County which has the same problems as Fish Lake.  We are checking into this.

Thank you,

Sam

Hello Sam,

You tank may be filling back up because of a number of reasons:

1. You absorption field has failed and stays saturated at all times.  When you pump your tank, this water from the trenches (and perhaps some ground water) runs backand fills up your tank.

2.  Your septic tank is leaking.  Once pumped, water infiltrates through a crack or hole and fills up the tank.
3. A combination of both.
Did the tank fill back up immediately after pumping or did this take a day or so?  Did the pumper mention lots of drain back from the field during pumping?  This information is needed to determine where the water that filled up your tank is coming from.
Installing a check valve will do nothing to fix your problems.
If you have a valve installed (usually called a Bull Run Valve), you should try to find it.  Unfortunately, this can be a daunting task but is well worth it if successful.
The valve will be installed in the sewer coming from septic tank outlet.  The valve will be before the absorption field.  To find it, you will need to dig down and follow the effluent sewer from the tank until you find the valve.   It will most likely be equipped with a 4″ diameter riser and screw on lid.  At one time, this lid probably extended to the ground surface but has since been grown over with grass.
City sewer may not be available until WAY in the future.  Unless you have a written commitment from your local government that “sewer is on it’s way”, you can assume that it won’t be coming, at least not any time soon.
From how you are describing your property (with a high water table), a mound system sounds like your only option for a repair.  Mounds require a minimum of 20″ of suitable, well drained soil.  If you have less than that, a type II mound system with extra sand under the bed can be constructed.  It is vital that new water-tight tanks be set with your new system.   The last thing you want with a new system is a leaky tank!
I can design a mound system for your property for $755.  To do so, I would need a copy of a survey of your property.
Please call or email if you have any other questions.

Stuart Meade


Son Purchased House will Failing System:

Dear Stuart,We have a son living in Dephi Indiana.  He purchased property and a house (without getting an inspection) about eighteen months ago.  Rather quickly the septic system began to backup plus other things.  While digging in the yard for another reason he discovered that the septic tank was actually an old gasoline tank that was put in by a previous owner, of course without permits.  He was told by the Building Dept. that there was nothing he could do.  He consulted an attorney who advised him to “just walk away from the property.”  Can you give us someone to discuss this with who can help us?  We know that not having an inspection he basically purchased the property “as is”.  But, with the tank being illegal and leaking he is concerned about the ground water and also any fines that he may be stuck with.  Can you lead us in the right direction?

Thank you.

Karen,

Hello Karen,
 
This is a very unfortunate situation.  When purchasing an existing house, a buyer should always be skeptical about the septic system.  Don’t ever assume that it’s functioning unless it’s first been inspected (by a qualified inspector) and given the okay.  Even a passing grade from an inspector doesn’t necessarily mean the system will work for a long time, it simply means that the system is “legitimate” and is functioning on the day of the inspection.
Unless the purchase agreement specifically addressed the septic system, I think you are completely out of luck.  As they say, “buyer beware.”    The best deal is when you can get the seller to either instal a new system before they turn over the house to you or escrow the money away for a new system.
If your Son’s septic system is “leaking” he will need to bite-the-bullet and get the system repaired.  Contact the local County Health Department to find out what their procedure is for getting a permit. 
Feel free to email or call me if you have any other questions.

Stuart Meade


Good afternoon Sir, my name is Rick Hanson and I just wanted to thank you for having “how to locate your septic tank” on your web site. I have been wandering where my tank has been since I moved in here a few years ago and just happened across your site and within 30 seconds of going out with your how to in mind I struck the tank in three places, so now I know where it is and don’t have to worry about collapsing it with a pool or whatever, so once again Thank You.

Sent from my iPhone

Rick,
I’m glad you found the tank!   That is my most viewed page on my entire website.  I’m glad it was useful to you.

Stuart Meade

 

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________I I need some advice. How close do you advise that people can come to a mound system with a new construction? I’ve had two people this week ask me this question and I am keen to know your opinion. Thanks.

The simple answer is… I’d keep the house out of the mound’s dispersal area.  If the house is up slope of the mound, then the mound can be close, at least theoretically.  But, there are two potential issues with constructing the mound so close to a new home.
1.   Machinery and vehicles used to build the house (like big trucks) are very likely to compact the soil before the mound is installed, damaging the soil and effecting the soil’s ability to absorb water.  The closer the mound is to the house, the more critical it is that site protection (fencing) is taken seriously.  
2.   Covering the mound with more than 12″ if soil is not good. Often people want to build their house way up out of the ground to avoid the water table and put the mound right next to the house.  They then want to fill over the mound, and in between the house and mound, to try and hide it.  This usually means many feet of soil over the mound, which can cause it to go anaerobic, grow a bio-mat and fail prematurely. 
Stuart