New to septic systems--How do I maintain my system?

[New2Septic]

I just purchased a home in Virginia on 51 acres that was built in 1970 and is on well and septic.

The house has been vacant for 3 years.

It passed what I would call a cursory inspection:

-Toilet flushed
-Drainfield is dry
-Drainage lines cannot be visually identified by lawn color/other
-No odor
-Tank was not located
-Lid was not removed
-Distribution box not located

Since the system is approaching 40 years in age, I am concerned that it may be approaching the end of its useful life.

Once I locate the lid, I will have the system pumped.

What else would you recommend, both immediately and long term?

Thanks!

ps-I'm a fellow Hoosier, born in Greensburg, raised in Cawfordsville.

[Stuart Meade]

Hoosier or not, you are always welcome to ask your septic questions here!

Evaluating an existing septic system is an unperfected science.  All septic systems fail over time and some fail faster than others.   
A new septic absorption field should work flawlessly.  But, over time, the trenches (or other type of absorption field) will become clogged and will slowly loose their capacity to absorb water.   This slow and progressive failure is caused by both physical clogging of the trenches and the creation and propagation of a biological biomat.  These both seal off the soil absorption field and slow the infiltration of water into the ground. 

This sealing off of the trenches is typically a very slow process.  As long as your absorption field absorbs water as quickly as you send water to the septic system, it won’t back up (and you won’t know that this failure is slowly progressing).  Technically,  failure happens once your wastewater flow becomes greater than your system’s absorption rate/capacity.  Failure may happen as a backup in the home’s pluming or as a “blow out” to the ground surface over your system.

So, what’s the best way to evaluate an existing septic system?
The very best way is to check the water level on the outlet end of a septic tank.  This can be viewed by removing the lid on the outlet side of the tank.
 If the water level in the tank is at the bottom of the outlet pipe, this means that there is no backing up happening (at that exact moment) in the absorption field.  NOTE:  The water level as compared to the outlet pipe is only meaningful if the there has been a continual (and normal) wastewater flow from the house.  Otherwise, the absorption field was allowed to “catch up” with the inflow.
Also, look for evidence that the water has been above the outlet pipe.  Water rings in the riser is a sign that the field backs up on occasion.  Not good!

So, this type of inspection does you no good if the house has been sitting empty.
Though, you can still check the water level in the tank.  There might be some clues to the workings of the system – like high water marks.

The National association of Wastewater Transporters, Inc. offer inspection courses and certification.  This is just one of many reputable groups who offer inspections.

Some  disreputable inspectors will turn on all the water fixtures in your house and let them run for 15 minutes to see of the septic system backs up.  This method, often called a stress test,  is a very unscientific and unreliable way to see if your system is working properly.   In fact, this unnatural surge of water can do your system harm by stirring up the tank and sending solid out into the absorption field.

Check with your local health department and see you have any local requirements or regulations pertaining to septic system inspection.

Hope that helps.

Stuart

[New2Septic]

Sounds good.

Thanks, Stuart.